Drain & Fill
Pan drop, old fluid out, new fluid in. Replaces roughly 30 to 50 percent of the fluid. Right call for most vehicles on a regular service interval.
Fresh fluid is the single best thing you can do for an automatic transmission. We use the exact spec your vehicle calls for (Dexron, Mercon, ATF+4, CVT, DCT), not generic universal fluid. Drain-and-fill or full machine flush depending on what your transmission actually needs.
Every transmission fluid service at M&K is matched to your vehicle and the condition of the fluid already in it. We do not upsell flushes on transmissions that should not get one.
Pan drop, old fluid out, new fluid in. Replaces roughly 30 to 50 percent of the fluid. Right call for most vehicles on a regular service interval.
Same as a drain-and-fill plus a new internal filter and pan gasket. Required on transmissions with serviceable filters, usually every other fluid change.
Connected to a flush machine that exchanges close to 100 percent of the fluid. Best on lower-mileage transmissions with clean fluid that is just due.
Dexron VI, Mercon LV, ATF+4, Honda DW-1 or ATF Type 3.1, Toyota WS, Nissan CVT NS-3, Subaru CVT, ZF Lifeguard. We do not mix specs and we do not use universal fluid.
We pull the dipstick (or scan the level if there is no stick), check color and smell, and tell you what we see. Brown, burnt, or full of metal means we have a different conversation.
Pan gasket, cooler lines, and external seals inspected on every service. A fresh fluid change is wasted if the fluid leaks out next month.
Same question every shop hears. The honest answer depends on mileage, fluid history, and what the fluid looks like when we pull a sample.
Either service works. A drain-and-fill is cheaper and gets you back on the road. A flush replaces more of the fluid and resets the maintenance counter further out. We will lay out the trade-off honestly.
Drain-and-fill only. A full flush on a neglected high-mileage transmission can dislodge debris and clog passages downstream. Better to do a drain-and-fill, drive 30,000 miles, and do another.
Plan on a pan drop every other fluid change. The filter catches clutch material and metal that the magnet does not. A clogged filter starves the pump and kills the transmission.
Change only, with the exact OEM fluid (Nissan NS-3, Honda HCF-2, Subaru CVTF, etc.). Never flush a CVT. Most CVTs need fluid every 30,000 to 40,000 miles, not the 60,000+ that automatics tolerate.
It does not actually mean lifetime. "Lifetime" is the manufacturer's term for "longer than the warranty." We still recommend fluid service every 60,000 to 80,000 miles on sealed transmissions, because we have seen what happens to the ones that never get any.
We do not perform internal transmission rebuilds. If a fluid sample shows heavy clutch material or metal shavings, we will tell you straight: the transmission is past fluid service and needs repair or replacement.
Symptoms, diagnostics, and CVT-specific guidance. Start with the one that matches what you are seeing.
RPMs climb without acceleration, delayed engagement, gear jumping. Causes, what to check, and when to stop driving.
What we check, what the scan tool sees, what fluid condition tells us, and how we isolate the real problem before quoting parts.
Continuously variable transmissions need different fluid, different intervals, and different rules. Honda, Nissan, Subaru, Toyota CVT guidance.
Warning signs, what we fix in-house, what we refer out, and how to keep a small problem from becoming a major one.
Bring it in for a fluid condition check and an honest recommendation. We will tell you what your transmission actually needs, not what pays best.
1605 W Gate City Blvd
Greensboro, NC 27403
Mon–Fri · 9 AM – 6 PM
Sat · 9 AM – 3 PM
(336) 370-6710
Walk-ins welcome